Saturday, 28 November 2009

Graham Norton: LA's so exciting

Visit the undiscovered sights beneath the bright lights

'I love travelling, especially to Los Angeles. Everything about the place is so exciting,' says Graham Norton. 'We see it so much on TV, then you get to LA and it's right there in front of you. I'm a big fan of the Chateau Marmont Hotel, on Sunset Boulevard. It's old and scuzzy, but still very trendy.'

Alternative LA

Many visitors to la-la land never get further than the same old touristy cliches of theme parks and stars' homes, but for individualists who hate to follow the crowd, there's a wealth of undiscovered sights and experiences waiting to be explored.

Alternative architecture

Venice
Everyone gravitates to the famous boardwalk of Venice Beach to watch the parade of jugglers and fire-eaters, but step back a few blocks from the famous Pacific beach front and you'll soon see how Venice got its name.

Designed in the early part of the 20th century as an Italian-style network of canals lined with mini palaces and waterfront homes accessed by boat rather than road, this former marshland was intended as a cultural centre. That never happened, but several blocks of perod buildings are still standing. Stroll along the canal paths and see how life might have been had it not been for California's car obsession...

Alternative neighbourhood

Little Tokyo
As the tourist buses head for Chinatown, why not visit Little Tokyo instead. The Shopping Plaza is styled after an inaka (rural) Japanese village, with a symbolic wooden fire watchtower, and has an almost exclusively Oriental clientele. Most Angelenos visit Little Tokyo for its food, from teriyaki to tempura, sushi and sashimi, and the area's restaurants are great value (try a Californian roll, a beginner's sushi containing cucumber, crabstick and avocado).

Little Tokyo houses Higashi Honganji, the oldest Buddhist temple in LA. Its Japanese American National Museum charts the history of the community's relationship with its host country including the internment of 120,000 Japanese-Americans during World War II.

Alternative sightseeing

The Cemeteries
Instead of the Stars' Homes tour, why not visit the last resting place of such legends as Cecil B DeMille, Tyrone Power, John Huston and Rudolph Valentino?

Until recently, LA's Hollywood Forever cemetery on Santa Monica Boulevard, so elegant in its 20s heyday, had been run-down. Today, thanks to a major renovation, it's also a Library of Lives, featuring the interactive biographies of thousands of those buried there, illustrated by film clips and photos. From the gates you can see the famous Hollywood sign set in the hills.

Elsewhere, Westwood Memorial Park is an intimate cemetery where Marilyn Monroe lies in a white crypt in the Corridor of Memories. Dean Martin, Roy Orbison, Walter Matthau and Jack Lemmon are among those who keep her stellar company.

Caroline Aherne says: 'Los Angeles is one of my favourite places in the world. It's dead clean and everything smells of bleach. Much nicer than Las Vegas.'

Alternative gallery

Brewery Arts Complex
The Getty Museum may receive all the attention, but there's no better way to access the LA arts scene than by heading to the nondescript industrial part of downtown LA that's home to the 23-acre Brewery Arts complex.

Said to be the world's largest artist-in-residence area, located in the former Pabst Blue Ribbon brewery, this is an artists' community based in 22 buildings. More than 500 local artists work, exhibit and sell their wares here. There's a cafe, a gallery and two gallery walks each year, when you can meet the artists.

Alternative museum

Mona
LA is crammed with museums and one of the most intriguing but lesser known has to be The Museum of Neon Art (MONA) in downtown LA - the world's only exhibition of its kind. Opened in 1981, it has 50 artists creating amazing light shows. The location is perfect - let's face it, Hollywood's all about living life in the spotlight.

Alternative night out

Bicycle Casino
Forget Vegas. The Bike (as it's known by aficionados) is the place to be for the classic, old-school poker experience. Open 24 hours a day, the spacious gaming room, in traditional marble and brass, is filled with tables where old pros, high-rollers and Hollywood faces (Ben Affleck, Tobey Maguire and Matthew Perry are said to be regulars) play for serious stalkers.

Alternative transport

LA metro
It might have been built around the car, but one of LA's best-kept secrets is the Metro. Safe, clean, punctual and cheap, the lines link major areas such as Hollywood and Long Beach.

Alternative hang-out

Standard Hotel
The voguish Standard Hotel Downtown (www.standardhotel.com) is the place to be and isn't as expensive as you'd think. Even if you're not staying here, why not experience the ground-floor diner where stars such as Uma Thurman and Natalie Portman are said to enjoy the gourmet burgers.

Alternative waterfront

Point Fermin Lighthouse
While everyone's making for Malibu beach, why not check out Los Angeles Harbour instead - virtually unknown to most tourists. Built in 1874, Point Fermin lighthouse was vital for guiding ships into San Pedro (now Los Angeles) Harbour. Built of lumber from Canadian redwoods, it's one of the oldest lighthouses on the west coast. Set in elegant gardens it gives an unrivalled view of Angel's Gate, Catalina Island and the glorious coastline.

Alternative music

It's not hard to find live music n LA, but copy the locals and head for an al fresco musical experience at the recently restored, state-of-the-art Hollywood Bowl. Taking in a night-time concert under the Californian stars is also a great way to meet real Angelinos.