Naomi Campbell: Say hello to Kenya
Enjoy a safari & a sensational coastline
Monday, 23 October 2006
Supermodel Naomi Campbell loves Kenya - especially the town of Malindi, a town at the mouth of the Galana River on the Indian Ocean coast.
'One of the reasons I love Malindi is that I can walk on the road without people bothering me,' she says.
'They just greet you with a smile and say hello. Malindi is the only place where I can walk freely on the road without being afraid of anything.'
Azure seas and soft sand
Africa isn't just about wild animals and rugged safaris under the blazing sun – Kenya, on the east coast, offers azure seas, the softest sands and a choice of blissful mainland resorts or island hideaways.
Turtle Bay
Where is it?
On the coast two hours north of Mombasa.
Why go there?
On the edge of the Watamu Marine National Park, Turtle Bay has an exceptional shoreline, boasting amazingly colourful coral reefs.
Must see must do
GEDI RUINS
This medieval Arab-African town was abandoned in the 17th century and has fallen into romantic disrepair. Visit late in the afternoon when the long shadows and overhanging baobab trees give the ruins a haunting, eerie quality.
BUTTERFLY FARM
The farm was set up as a community project and the 'kipepeo' Swahili for butterfly – are caught by locals and encouraged to breed. Their exotic colours are breathtaking. You can watch them emerging from chrysalises and stretching their wings in the sun.
MALINDI
The nearest town to Turtle Bay, flat Malindi is best explored by hiring a bicycle.
Check out the atmospheric old quarter and then make for the craft centre on the seashore, going via the small zoo.
Food and drink
The hotels and bars in Turtle Bay offer good food, theme nights and live music.
When to go
Between December and April temperatures range between 30°C and 33°C (86°F to 95°F), dropping to around 27°C (80°F) between May and November. The months of April and May are the rainy season.
How safe is it?
Turtle Bay is surrounded by hotels and there are beach patrols. Malindi is pretty safe, but it's wise to avoid unlit areas.
Mombasa area
Where is it?
On the southern coast near Tanzania.
Why go there?
Mombasa is one of Africa's oldest settlements, with superb beaches.
Must see must do
MOMBASA
Kenya's second largest city sprawls across Mombasa Island and is linked to the mainland by a bridge. The old part of town is a maze of lanes. The picturesque houses have lacy fretwork balconies and tiny cafés slope down to the colourful harbour.
BEACHES
Mombasa has two famous beaches, Diani and Nyali, both of them fringed with swaying coconut palms. Tiwi beach, about 20km south from Mombasa, is worth the taxi ride if you're looking for tranquillity.
SHIMBA HILLS NATIONAL RESERVE
About 45km from Mombasa is a gentle introduction to the safari experience. Here you can see giraffes, elephants and the park's famous sable antelope. Book a day's trip for around £50 a head, which includes entrance charge.
Food and drink
There are plenty of restaurants, but do try the street food – green coconuts, sugar cane juice and fresh fruit juices are cheap and cooling. Spicy kebabs and freshly fried crisps are sold during the day.
When to go
Between June and March, temperatures range between 27°C and 33°C (81°F to 91°F).
How safe is it?
Walking around Mombasa during the day is fine. At night it's better not to stroll alone. Avoid the beach after dark.
Kiwayu
Where is it?
About 50km north of Lamu, it's the most northerly island in a small group and part of the Kiyunga Marine National Reserve.
Why go there?
It's a peaceful paradise, tranquil and undeveloped. You won't find any concrete monstrosities here, just beach-style 'Bajuni' cottages with palm-covered roofs and woven matting floors. The deserted beaches will take your breath away.
Must see must do
THE BEACHES
The island and nearby mainland are etched with small sandy coves and ribbons of bleached white sand. Bring a picnic and bag a beach to yourself, take an evening 'foot safari' over the dunes to watch the sunset, go water skiing or snorkel the coral reefs.
HIDEAWAYS
Take an excursion to the coral sands of the Kitangani area and relax in the small hideaway cabin that nestles between two huge baobab trees. In the evening make for Munira at the far north end of the island. There's a small bar and café and you can look through the bar's telescope and watch the sun slowly set.
DODORI AND BONI NATIONAL RESERVES
You can arrange escorted safari tours to both of these wild reserves, which are very close to Kiwayu and rich in wildlife. Hiring a guide will help you spot lurking lions and cheetahs which can otherwise prove elusive. The monkeys, buffalo and elephants are easier to see.
Food and drink
Dishes are mostly seafood-based – don't miss the charcoal-grilled lobster and giant prawns, crab with fresh herbs and spaghetti with clams.
When to go
August to April is the main season. With light rains, November and December are best for snorkelling. As with Lamu, Kiwayu is a Muslim island so it's better to avoid visiting during the month-long festival of Ramadan which starts around 4 October this year, as some places are closed then. Temperatures range between 28°C and 35ºC (82°F to 95°F).
How safe is it?
As the island is off the usual tourist path, crime is relatively uncommon.
Lamu
Where is it?
A small island to the north east.
Why go there?
It's only 16km long by 8km wide, and there are no cars on this island – tractors, donkeys and bicycles are the only forms of transport.
Must see must do
LAMU TOWN
A World Heritage site, its streets are crammed with intricately decorated old houses. Wander from the imposing fort to the excellent Lamu Museum, passing beautifully carved doors.
DHOW TRIP
For the ultimate romantic experience, take a trip in one of these traditional boats as dusk falls and watch the sun set.
VILLAGES
Take a motorised dhow to the ancient Swahili village of Shela on glorious Shela Beach. Kipungani village in the southwest is friendly and quiet with a beautiful empty beach nearby.
Food and drink
There are plenty of restaurants and cafés serving delicious crab or crawfish (like lobster but without the claws) and bean dishes, curries and salads. However meat tends to be stringy unless you're eating in a good hotel.
When to go
June to March. April and May are rainy but still hot. Average temperatures range between
28°C and 32°C.
How safe is it?
The island is very peaceful, though you may encounter some persistent touts on arrival.
Philip Blackmore
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