Sunday, 12 November 2006

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Gaynor Faye: India has such beauty

It's a treasure house and humbling experience

'I went to India with my pal Vicki Entwhistle from Coronation Street and it was fascinating,' says Gaynor Faye. 'I'd love to go back. We went to Agra, Jaipur, Delhi and Bombay, then we spent a week in Goa.

'There's such beauty together with such poverty over there. It puts everything into perspective. You come back feeling very humble about all the good fortune you have in your own life.'India is a treasure house of exotic sights, sounds and experiences and it's never been easier to enjoy them

When you've made the effort to travel all the way to India, it's only natural to want to see everything. But India's a big place and until recently taking a tour of the finest sights – from ancient temples and palaces to glorious beaches – meant either backpacking on sweaty trains or forking out a fortune for internal flights.

But not any more. Inspired by the low-cost European carriers, a clutch of Indian budget airlines now offer tourists internal flights at low prices.

At the same time, flying to India has become cheaper and simpler than ever. The Indian government recently signed an agreement doubling the number of flights between the UK and the subcontinent and prices have tumbled to as low as £199 return. So now it's easy to put together your own tailor-made trip for little more than the cost of a fortnight in the UK.

How to get started

First, decide on the sights and cities you want to see. Then take a look at a map, plan your preferred route and go online to book your low-cost flights and accommodation from the comfort of your own home.

Air Deccan (www.airdeccan.net) has an extensive range of routes with online fares which include Delhi-Jaipur from £9, Goa-Mumbai from £12 and Cochin-Bangalore from £18. Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) has a comprehensive network with fares from £25. Spicejet (www.spicejet.com) offers 11 routes with fares from £13. GoAir (www.goair.in) flies throughout India with fares from £20.

Where to stay

For an authentic Indian experience, why not avoid the expensive five-star hotels and opt for good guesthouses? Expect to pay around £10 to £15 per room per night, including breakfast. For more details check out the Alastair Sawday Special Places To Stay guide (www.sawdays.co.uk) or www.onlineindianhotels.net and www.heritagehotels.com.

When to go

The best time to visit is from November to mid-March. February is often the nicest month, although if you like your temperatures hot, try April and May. Avoid June to September when the heavy monsoon rain buckets down.

Staying healthy

Only drink bottled mineral water and use it to clean your teeth. Avoid ice in drinks. Beer is a good bet, but don't drink it straight from the bottle. Don't eat food from roadside stalls or hotel buffet dishes that have been sitting around for hours. Consult MASTA (0906 8224100; www.masta.org) for the immunisations you will need. And take your anti-malaria course regularly.

Getting there

Low-cost carrier Air Sahara (0870 1271000; www.airsahara.net) flies between Heathrow and Delhi from £199 return plus tax. Alternatively, book a charter flight to destinations such as Goa from £189 return plus tax and use that as your tour start point.

Try the Charter Flight Centre (0845 0450153; www.charterflights.co.uk) or Monarch Airlines (0870 0405040; www.flymonarch.com). The main carriers such as BA, Virgin, BMI and Air India are still charging from around £450 return but it's worth checking with them for cheaper deals.

Red tape

You'll need a visa. Apply in person or by post to the High Commission of India, India House, Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA (020-7836 8484; www.hcilondon.net).

Darren Hayes says: 'India's my favourite place. The living conditions there can be so harsh, yet so many of the people I met there were full of such wonderful joy. It truly is a place of unbelievable contrasts.'

Goa

Goa hit the headlines back in the 60s, when the former Portuguese enclave became the Mecca of the hippy trail thanks to its laid-back European flavour and beautiful unspoilt beaches lapped by the warm Arabian Sea.
• Explore Old Goa with its mighty Portuguese cathedrals, churches and convents.
• Dance until you drop at Anjuna Beach, party-scene central and home to the famous Wednesday flea market.
• Play at being Robinson Crusoe on the pristine sand.

Stephen Gately says: 'I fell in love with India. It's filled with such beautiful buildings and people. In Bombay, I couldn't get enough of the spicy food. It's a fascinating country, but I was sad to see that there's also a lot of suffering, sickness and poverty.'

Delhi

India's capital and third largest city has reinvented itself as the cultural heart of the country, so expect plenty of chic cafés and bars with plenty of nightlife.
• Wander round the massive sandstone Red Fort and explore Old Delhi's bustling bazaars.
• Visit the stunning 238ft high Qutab Minar minaret and the mystical Tomb of Humayun.
• Take a day trip to Agra to the breathtakingly beautiful Taj Mahal.

Matthew Williamson says: 'India's a very special place to me. The different cultures and traditions inspire me to be creative with my designs and the relaxed atmosphere is perfect for me to escape to.'

Mumbai

Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay, is now famous for being the home of the Bollywood film industry.
• Hang out with the beautiful people in India's glitziest designer boutiques, bars and clubs.
• Don't miss the Gateway of India triumphal arch and take tiffin at the historic Taj Mahal Hotel.
• Soak up the rays and people watch on Chowpatty Beach – but don't even think about taking a dip in the murky water.

Jaipur

The capital of Rajasthan is often referred to as the 'pink city' because of the pretty golden rose hue of the buildings in the old town.
• Ride an elephant to the Amber Fort with its extravagantly decorated chambers and halls.
• Visit the Jantar Mantar, an observatory dating back to 1728.
• Climb to the top of the Hawa Mahal (or Palace of the Winds) for a great city overview.
• Pay a royal visit to the City Palace where the son of the last maharaja and his family still live.

Cochin

Cochin is the finest city in the pretty southern state of Kerala and has a picture-postcard setting on a cluster of islands.
• For colonial nostalgia and great city views take a stroll to the 16th-century Fort Cochin.
• Visit the mighty Mattancherry Palace (or Dutch Palace), built by the Portuguese for the raja
of Cochin in 1555, which is still a rabbit warren of fascinating state rooms and chambers.
• Take a boat trip round the lively port to Ernakulam and the Parishath Thampuram Museum.

Ian McCurrach